Since I am new to all of this, I was looking for input as well. The lines are caused by nicks in the blade. Pretty frustrating. If you have your rear shoe resting on an already cut surface and the front shoe on an uncut surface ( see http://www.swaylocks.com/cgi-bin/discussion/archive.cgi/read/48009 ) , then what gets cut should be real close to even with the rest of the cut surface. There are three basic causes. Let Mother Nature be your co-designer as you build dazzling projects with wavy edges, bristly burrs, bark inclusions, and other flaws that give wood a look of unrefined beauty.
This machining defect is called snipe. But I had to pull each of these boards from the sub-floor, and cut all of the staples from the wood. The small individual blades that corkscrew around the cutterhead have slightly convex cutting edges that fight tear-out, but also leave the linear striations you're noticing. Paul Sellers & Company Ltd is a company registered in England and Wales with the company number 10347569. This is a common event when dull knives are used or high stock removal occurs (that is, each knife is removing a lot of material). Thought it was snipe but if it's parallel to direction of travel in the planer then yeah knives or cutters are fucked. Who sells the parts to convert to helical carbide blades? Sometimes tearing out this grain can be avoided by reading the grain accurately and going in with a shallow set where you expect problems, but not always. Three great finishes (that aren't polyurethane). Doc's picture about blade depth setting is also significant, particularly if you've ever removed the blades for sharpening or whatever. This page was generated at 10:52 PM. Well today im going to show you 6 ways to reduce planer snipe and help you win the battle over this nasty phenomenon. Am I doing something wrong?Travis Adair, Cincinnati, Ohio. Why does this happen? 1999-2020 Swaylocks.com - All rights reserved, Swaylock's and Quiver are registered trademarks of Swaylocks.com, http://www.swaylocks.com/cgi-bin/discussion/archive.cgi/read/48009, 0xcE50B20133612101F9d2BF4bc2CBdf71F6465f95. Planing end grain is also harder on your blades. The final way I tested to reduce planer snipe is to lift the board as it goes in and out of the planer. It was suggested that brads used to fasten the boards down might be causing these lines. Wisdom comes with age and experience.
Thanks for the response, great points there on the physics of it all. You'll be glad you did. I put another set it and had the same issue, I put a helical head in and I did not have the issue. I assume that my questions apply to most power planers. You'll also get the ridging effect if the blades are not sharp enough. Coming out of the planer, and even after sanding, the piece will look smooth, but as soon as a little moisture hits the surface (high relative humidity or water-based finishes) the crushed areas will spring back and give the lumber a rippled appearance. I lowered the front shoe so one corner barely touched the polycarbonate, then mixed a batch of Devcon, smeared it on the front shoe, and set the whole thing down on the flat. It may vary depending upon your model. The planer that I use is referred to as a lunchbox planer. Jim Phillips shows how he does it. It is also worth considering the thickness of shaving you are taking off if you are ending up with an unevenly thicknessed board. You have the exact Ridgid Model Planer that I have, though mine is currently in storage. Generally, I remove those lines with a card scraper. RIDGIDprovided me with productand/or monetary compensation as a sponsor of this build. Use a BUJ hand plane w/ a toothing blade and finish with a smoothing plane. The second cause of such ripples is that the bed plate of the planer is no longer flat but has been worn after rubbing against many board feet of lumber.
Accurate setting of the cutter block with reference to the outfeed table is the key and the setting will depend on ther hardness of the wood you plane. Belt sander. However, with a wood like Southern pine, that has such a large contrast within the growth ring, raised grain is hard to avoid. In order to have those lines all three knives have to be nicked in the same spot. Dull knives and low moisture content accentuate this effect. Now when I use it, the face of each board shows slight grooves running along its length. As far as planing action is concerned you may be pushing down on the nose of the plane at the end of the stroke. I always have some planer marks but that's what the level wrapped in sandpaper is for. Here is the result using this method. That, in my experience, is the biggest culprit for those little groove causing nicks. I didn't know what else to do. If its accross the boards in the direction of the cutterhead and towards the ends of the board it sounds more like snipe caused by the boards not being porperly supported. You know that router plane kit we said was coming? To do this just have 2 boards that are long enough to be safely planed (~12 for most planers, check your manual for your model). Cut out template with the jigsaw. Then butt your good piece directly behind so it is touching the lead board and push it in until the feed rollers grab it. this link is to an external site that may or may not meet accessibility guidelines. Depending on your planer, (I have the DW735), but your knives can be notoriously soft (as the DW735 are), and putting end grain can (which is really hard on planers) could be increasing your changes to get this. Now, if the grain of the piece comes out of the face (planing with the grain), the split, which will follow the grain, will go ahead of the knife but into the waste wood that will be removed in planing. I usually make each pass at a slight angle and follow the line from the previous pass but I still get ridges. The root causes of Snipe has more to do with the physics of speed/momentum of your cutter head than the configuration of the infeed and outfeed rollers. http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/end-grain-through-the-planer/. Big? I am trying to determine what model number this is so that I can see if there is a shelix cutterheard kit for it. No major snipe, but just the divot. Personally I wouldn't be too happy if I did. :wink: Is it continuous all the way along the board or just at the start or end? Sign Up for Woodworking Network Newsletters, Get the latest headlines delivered to you daily Subscribe. The blades for a DW735 are two-sided, so flipping the blades is like installing new blades on other planers. The idea here is instead of the feedrollers hitting the front edge all at once it hits just the front corner of the board and eases onto the rest of the board.
Ive seen this done with cutting boards or other such glue ups. Might just take alot of getting used to. I set the blades into this jig, then stroke a diamond plate from end to end until the nicks disappear. Heres how. If you have a DeWalt planer all you can really do is change the knives. Always feeding same direction will keep the worst of the snipe on the same end. If at first you don't succeed, try reading the owners manual. All Rights Reserved. If Im working with extremely hard wood, especially on highly visible pieces (tops, face frames, etc) I just make my original cut a few inches long, then cut off the snipe end. Before we get started, make sure to follow me on Instagram, Facebook, YouTubeand Pinterest to keep up with all my latest builds and free projects! Also, you might want to try sharpening your plane to a York pitch, or doing this with a spare iron if you have one. If I really concentrate on holding it level to whatever surface I'm planing, the ridges aren't so bad, but I always get them to a point, and they're a pain to sand out and then try to get the bottom flat again. I have become more careful about running glued up boards where the glue line will be cut. I can confidently say that my AW106PT offers a whole lot more for the extra money.
Quote: Let's see- if the planer is cutting some at a '0' setting then I think that's a lot of your problem right there. Two examples: Maple has small pockets of swirly grain; mahogany has long stripes of "against the grain" wood. So if you're used to a nearly finished face out of your straight-knife cutterhead, you might be disappointed by the additional sanding burden added by the spiral cutterhead. All is not lost though. Oftentimes the weak fiber results because of a growth defect called tension wood, which is found only in hardwoods. Where I work we used to have a really big Wadkin Bursgreen Thicknesser. This treatment stands up the fibers and then holds them up so they can be sanded cleanly. Yes. I was going to caution against end grain cutting on a machine planer, but everyone else beat me to itsomething like this can easily explode going through, and it's just plain hard on your planer. You are using an out of date browser. DW735x. You can see here the divot that was left in the lead edge of the board. In addition to sharpening knives, removing less material per knife cut, assuring that the wood is not over-dried (under 6.0 percent MC for hardwoods and under 10.0 percent MC for softwoods), and is dried under 160 F, the knife should be made a few degrees more stout. And I have carefully looked at each board as it has come out of the planer, and see no evidence of any brads or nails, or kickback from a nail in any of the boards. I wont use this method as there are much better ones. Now when I use it, the face of each board shows slight grooves running along its length. Thanks for the input. Register today and take advantage of membership benefits. Why am I getting grooves and ridges when planing? Copyright 2022 CCI Media, LLC All Rights Reserved. I have a delta 13 inch planer. New blades and everything. Sounds like your planer's blades may be out of alignent or the jig used to align the blades may need calibration. Oftentimes, adding slightly to the problem is that the pressure bar has been worn from abrasion with the lumber. In this case, especially with narrower pieces, the lumber will not be held tightly but will chatter up and down, creating some large ripples that require a lot of sanding. Changed out my blades and it's fixed. I think I have been experiencing the same issue. See my disclosure page for info on affiliate programs. The side runners should extend further than the typical snipe length of your boards (2-3). Youll notice the pencil lines go all the way to the end showing that the surface is all the same height. The chip breaker or pressure bar just cannot hold the piece against this force of gravity. I just installed new blades and its still happening. Have you ever planed a piece of wood and then found that the first 6 inches or the last 6 inches of the lumber is a bit thinner than the rest of the piece? I thought it was crazy that a single pass of one board would do that. Fuzziness results because the wood fibers are too weak to be cut cleanly, so they fold over.
Which hand planes should a power-tool woodworker buy first? DO NOT PUT PRESSURE OVER THE BLADES OR IN FRONT OF THEM. Old-timers will sometimes tell you that you were planing against the grain, so you should flip the piece around, end for end. Gotta be careful raising fed trays, you can create a dish effect on long boards (thinner in middle instead of flat). I ran a board through my planer and rubbed a lead pencil over the end of it to show you what this looks like. The reason my Chinese planer leaves ridges (well one of them anyway) is that the front shoe (platen) is not in the same plane as the rear shoe. Just really, really light passes. Please submit links to how-to pages and videos, pictures of beautiful and amazing pieces you made for us to admire, or help you finish. If the damage done is so severe that the grain actually fails and tears, then the defect might be called torn grain. Not that I'm implying you should not be happy with your mode. Also, low-density species have weaker fibers, especially aspen and cottonwood. The Leading Cause Of Injury In Older Men Is Them Thinking They Are Still Young Men. Not to hard to take out with a hand plane, its just annoying. Tearout is usually caused by plaining against the grain, whether that be where the grain is consistent all across the board or where there are areas of reverse or rising grain. Lets jump right in! This method worked pretty well, but did leave a small divot on the board. The edge of the blade should just meet the plane surface formed by the rear platen. I'm starting to notice more chipping if I take thicker passes, but that's after probably close to 500bf of mixed hard and soft wood. I outline first. Sanded down my end grain till smooth. Carbide blades last longer and can cut different materials than hss. I took it back and got another one. You should be applying pressure to rear of the planer a little behind the blades. I have a dw735 and I get these lines on my boards no matter what. All times are GMT-5. Its easy to assume the rollers are the culprit on a lunchbox configuration, although I can see how the feeds will compound the problem. This chipped grain is common around knots. The lines, or ridges, run the length of the boards and are not in the same place on each board. Start at 60 grit. The Fora platform includes forum software by XenForo, https://www.amazon.com/Byrd-Tool-woodworking-Shelix-cutterhead/dp/B0756QS699, https://www.grizzly.com/products/GrpZpzVo8YtIiOiLcw11hFCqWAzyEBNK80aAosEEALw_wcB, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter Street, Suite 600, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. In other words, stop using a planer for that work. Your reply was just the common sense that I needed to better understand the planer concept. I was taught to use a sled for thin or short stock. But the knives are indexed. Don't use a planer. Rub some alcohol on it to soften the end grain and hit it with a low angle Jack plane.
Pretty much par for the course with this approach. Rout the recesses right to hold a lid upright. I don't have one, but my ROS does a great job.
The only I thing I ask of a planer thicknesser is accurate dimensioning - not a final finish. I recently bought an aftermarket spiral cutterhead for my jointer. Are you planning end grain? All opinions are my own and are not filteredby the sponsor. Sometimes theres even a hairline gap pushing your pieces one after the other, this allows the cutter head to snipe again. The pressure rollers are on the outside and the cutterhead is in the middle. Understand that a planer knife is actually spinning in a circle, so its cut on the lumber is not flat but is a small groove or dished area, a small arc of the circle. Get Master Shaping Video by Damascus Productions. I borrowed a planer, and it was well used, and did not have new blades. Then I take a 24" level and wrap two pieces of 60 grit on that to true up any incinsitencies with the planer. What model number is this in the video? The cutter has a high rate of speed that is slowed upon contacting wood. oh dear, there's someone who's going to freefall down the slope one day, just like I recently did. The many square cutters on a spiral cutterhead make adjustments easy but typically leave a slightly less-finished board.rn.